older publications

We have old “Peafowl Today”, “NAGA (North American Gamebird Association) News”, and “APWS (American Pheasant & Waterfowl Society) Magazine” publications that we would love to share with you instead of filling the landfill. Email us your address if you would like us to mail you a few of these. Sales@cutlersupply.com

Should you medicate your hive this fall?

Some beekeepers do not medicate at all, some medicate only if there is a bad outbreak, while others medicate as a preventive measure. After your last honey harvest you can medicate hives for mites, nosema, or any other pest or disease if needed. Be sure to follow the pesticide’s directions exactly and use only the approved methods.

Mite-away-Quick Strips are effective in treating varroa mites and leave no residue.

If your bees are showing signs of nosema, the antibiotic Fumigillin is used to keep the spores from germinating.

American Foulbrood is also often treated in the spring and fall with the antibiotic Tylan.

Our link to Beekeeping medicine and information about the above problems is: http://cutlersupply.com/zen_new51/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=127_137

Feel free to add information about why you do or do not medicate your hives in the fall.

 

Fall chores for beekeepers

Your colonies should be getting set for the winter by now. They may still be bringing in pollen from the late-blooming plants. It is time to ensure that the hives are watertight, well ventilated and guarded against unwelcome intruders such as mice. It is also a time for some form of Varroa mite control. The reason for treating the colony at this time of year is that there aren’t as many larvae around, which is what the mites feed on, so if you rid the hive of the pest now, the new larvae laid in the spring will hopefully be Varroa-free and any traces of medication will have gone by the time the honey flow arrives. There are a range of different methods and treatments for Varroa Mite control, we carry Mite Away II Quick-Strips (BZMITE).

Most people recommend that you have two deep brood bodies and, in the colder longer winter states, a super or two of capped honey for the winter. At this point you should remove and clean the extra supers and frames. While storing them for the winter you may want to use our  BZM4 Para-Moth  Wax Moth Control.

This is a good time to give your hives a fresh coat of paint and check to make sure the hives are tight and seal any cracks. It is also important to provide adequate ventilation so when the warm air from the cluster of bees rises and hits the cold air it does not cause condensation which drips down onto the bees. You may also want to use our BZWRAP Bee Cozy Winter Hive Wrap to insulate your hive. wrap

Fall is also a great time to make plans for using your beeswax you collected. Are you going to make Christmas gifts? Candles? Lip Balm? Moisturizers?

Please feel free to add your comments about what you find helpful or necessary to help your bees survive and thrive during the winter.

 

Cannibalism in Game BIrds

To prevent cannibalism in game birds you need to use red lights to help keep them calm and to not see the other guy so well. You also need to give them as much space as possible. Over crowding is a big problem. There are plastic and metal bits that can be put on their beaks. Some will need to be changed as they grow. This fits over the top part of the beak and hooks in to the side of the nostril. They can’t close their beaks tight and that keeps them from pulling out the feathers of the other guy. If you can wait until they are four to six weeks old you can put the peepers on them. This will give them blinding protection so they can’t see the other guy. The perfect peepers are more square and can’t go on until they are six weeks old. These will give more blinding protection and cause more stress on the birds and that is why you need to wait until they are older. You can chose from c-clips or nylon pins to attach the peepers. There are economy blinders that can go on when they are four weeks old. They will need either pins or c clips to attach them to the birds also. We also have the clip on ones that don’t require pins or c-clips to attach them. They have a built in pin that just hooks into the side of the nostril. These may not stay on as well as the others. There is also Blue Kote spray and Hot Pick lotion to help prevent pecking and heal the wounds.

What incubator do you find works best

We sell many brands and styles of incubators, ranging greatly in price. Our most popular incubator is our table top GQF Hova-Bators. However, we have many customers who tell us they prefer the Brinsea incubators, and feel they are well worth the extra cost. We also sell many of the Roll-X and Turn-X incubators. Please share with our other customers what you prefer and why. Thank you for helping make our new Blog one that will be beneficial to all our customers. And, Thank you for your continued business.

 

Harvesting your honey

There are three main ways of harvesting honey: comb honey, scraping method, and extracting.

For Comb honey, simply use a thin, sharp knife and slice small chunks of the comb from the frame. Ideally, for comb honey you would use thin unwired foundation.

If you are using the scraping method, you will need a large pot to collect the honey, and one for the comb, a scraper and a coarse sieve. Later you will need a finer sieve to filter the honey a second time and a honey storage container. You can cut the top layer off the frame or just scrape the honey straight off the frame, comb and all, into a sieve sitting over a pot or bucket. After the honey oozes through the sieve you can save the wax comb scrapings for making candles or lotions. You then can use a finer sieve to remove the small particles which past through the coarser sieve.

Extracting makes this process much easier, however requires an extractor. There are many sizes and styles of extractors ranging greatly in price. To use the extraction method you would need an uncapping knife, bucket, double strainer and an extractor. Using the knife cut off the surface of the capping. Take off just the white capping and leave the rest of the comb intact. Put the wax capping into a container for making candles. Place frames into extractor and spin. Filter the honey through a double sieve into a storage bucket.

Please feel free to share what works best for you.

When to add more supers to my hive.

When the brood box frames have the outermost frames drawn out and again when the first super is more than half full of honey. If you have good honey-flow conditions and a strong hive the bees can fill a super with honey in less than a week. You can add two supers at once. If you got your bees early in the season or a mature hive and the honey flow is good, you may have to add four supers to your hive over the course of the summer. If you are using a queen excluder between your brood box and supers, you might find the bees are hesitant about moving through it. If this is the case take it off for a week, once the bees are working the super you can replace the queen excluder and they will pass through it now.

Please feel free to ask us and other beekeepers your questions and share your knowledge and experiences on our blog. The more people who share, the more we all learn from each other.